‘Bandhani’ is derived from the Sanskrit word bandha which means “to tie”. Bandhani, also known as Bandhej, refers to a tie-dye method of resist dyeing textiles practiced mainly in Gujarat, Rajasthan, and parts of Uttar Pradesh. It is one of the oldest techniques used to create different coloured patterns on textiles. It was introduced in Jamnagar, a city in Gujarat when the city was formed 400 years ago. Jamnagar is now one of the leading centers of bandhani and is known for its experimental designs.
Significance
In Gujrati culture, Bandhani symbolises being a woman, love, and marriage. It is an essential part of a woman’s wedding closet. A Gujarati tradition involves women of the family passing a bandhani saree down through generations. Every girl buys a new bandhani for her wedding, however, the saree used for the wedding is slightly different from the ready-made custom garments. These sarees are made from gajji silk, are a luxurious, deep red colour, and have gold borders called lagdi pato. The bandhani is soft and the colour combination gives it a royal touch. Women of certain communities in Gujarat wear patterns and colours that denote and distinguish them from women of other communities. She is easily recognised as a member of a particular ethnic group or class by the type of bandhani and style of the garment she adorns.
Design
Bandhani comes in a multitude of different designs, colours, and patterns that vary from region to region. The dyes used are natural and the main colours in it are yellow, red, green, blue, and black. These colours have their own symbolism and meaning. Yellow is a symbol for summer and happiness, red is of marriage and marital harmony, green for nature, black is for mourning.
After the tie-dye process is complete and the fabric is unwrapped, the cloth folds out into many designs such as dots, waves, squares, sand strips. The patterns they form are dependant on the way the fabric is tied and they revolve around themes of nature, festivals, and rituals. Some of these patterns are:
- Leheriya - wave
- Ambadal - branches of a mango tree
- Mothra - a wave-like pattern created by a double-dyed leheriya
- Shikari - patterns that reflect flora
- Chandrokhani - the figure of the moon
- Ekdali - single knot
- Trikunti - three knots
- Chaubandi - four knots
- Satbandi - seven knots
- Boond - small dot with a dark center
- Dungar Shahi - mountain pattern
- Kodi - teardrop/ droplet
- Laddu Jalebi - Indian sweet
Tie-dye is a technique of resist dyeing in which the textile is tied tightly with an impermeable thread at many points. A cloth that is a meter long could have thousands of small knots called bheendi. The areas the fabric is pinched leaves grey or white blocks. This results in many different patterns when it is opened, depending on where and how the fabric is pinched and tied. The dyeing is done by hand, producing rich and carefully curated colours. The knots created are carefully made in a criss-cross pattern to prevent the fabric from tearing and also to ensure that it falls open easily.
Current Scenario
Bandhani is an art form that is widely seen in Gujrat amongst women’s clothing and men’s turbans. While it is mainly sold in Gujrat, the demand for the bandhani spreads throughout India. The market is especially busy during the wedding season and around festival time.
In the last couple of decades, it has become increasingly successful in the international market. Artisans have been experimenting with new colours and have been adding a modern spin to traditional designs. By doing this, the products appeal to the Indian and global market as it shows a blend of cultures and ideas. Dresses made out of it are very popular and one can see the large space it occupies in men’s clothing too. Some clothing incorporates small sections of bandhani such as on the kurta pockets or on turbans, which gives an understated nod to tradition.
Since bandhani fabrics are bright and stand out, they have caught the eye of Bollywood filmmakers since the beginning of colour film in India. It caught the lights of the camera which displayed its vivid details and brilliant colours. The fabric was used as a way to reflect a character’s emotions in the movie. Therefore, the film and television industry played a big role in making the craft more popular across India in regional and national media.