‘Kantha’ is believed to be derived from the Sanskrit word ‘kontha’ which means rags. Kantha embroidery originated in West Bengal during the pre-Vedic period (before 1500 BCE). The thought process that inspired this form of embroidery is sustainability. Women reuse old clothes and rags and convert them into new products. Kantha reprocesses clothes in an economical and practical way which heightens its beauty. It is a mark of the skill and creativity that women from rural communities in Bengal possess. This makes Kantha embroidery unique.
Significance
Women from rural areas used their skills as a way to leave a mark. Kantha became a storybook of hopes, wishes, and memories that were weaved onto them. The rural women of the pre-Partition Bengal areas propagated the embroidery. It transcended class as kantha made by a rich woman, and one made by a poor woman was equally beautiful and complex. It did not originate as a means of livelihood, it was merely a learning passed down from mothers to their daughters. This makes kantha a warm and wholesome craft with a rich history.
Design
One can see aspects of folklore, mythology, and religious symbolism in the motifs. The simplicity of the craft allowed the artisans to translate their individual thoughts and dreams onto the fabric.
An intricate style called ‘Nakshi kantha’ developed over time. The name is derived from ‘naksha’, a Bengali word meaning artistic design. These designs focus on cultural and religious themes and are also influenced by the artisans’ daily lives. A theme of Nakshi kantha is stitching a lotus at the focal point of the fabric and surrounding it with designs of plants, animals, and elements of nature. The stitching was traditionally outlined on the fabric with a fine needle and thread.
The artisans in a district called Murshidabad in West Bengal incorporate a special style called Par Tola. The design is of geometric patterns and involves a unique style of stitching done from memory, with no prior tracing or planning. They loop the threads on one side of the surface, while the reverse maintains the classic running stitch. This brings attention to the complex geometric patterns on the front. It has been inspired by Islamic art, which traditionally puts more emphasis on clean lines, as opposed to taking inspiration from nature directly.
Doroka, also known as the double-sided kantha is a reverse embroidery style in which the artisans weave an identical or a completely different pattern on the back of the fabric.
Today, ‘kantha’ refers specifically to the type of stitching used on the fabric.