Indian Crafts - Punjabi Jutti

‘Jutti’ is the Urdu word for a shoe. This type of shoe has a closed upper and is slipped-on. It is most commonly associated with Punjab and mostly worn in North India. Punjabi juttis were originally made out of leather and their uniqueness comes from the embellishments and embroidery. It is considered crucial ethnic apparel as it can be worn every day and to any occasion.  

Significance

Juttis are an essential part of Punjabi culture. It is a source of pride and establishes a collective identity. There are many styles of juttis that appeal to different groups-- for example, Gabroos (young Punjabi men) are drawn to the Khussa jutti due to the upturned curl at the toe, which resembles the typically Punjabi and masculine kundi mooch (curled mustache). Mutiyaars, who are young Punjabi women, prefer Kasoori jutti which has dainty, feminine designs and represent elegance. 

A traditional jutti is gold and heavily ornamented with various beads, jewels, and embroidery. Those with especially complex patterns were made in regions of Punjab such as Patiala, Ludhiana, Mukstar, Faridkot, and Malout to name a few. Each region’s designs and specialty varied slightly, but Patiala’s tilla juttis stand out due to its royal lineage. These juttis are also known as shahi juttis because they were worn by the Kings of Delhi during the Khilji and Lodhi reigns. Due to this, they are also considered to be artworks and hold a high place in Punjabi culture. It represents their ethnicity and has become an integral part of their attire. 

History

Before Mughal rule in India, the common folk wore shoes made out of leather and natural fibers while ascetics wore padukas, which are made of wood. These were sandals with a knob between the first and second toes. Evidence of padukas exists in many carvings and sculptures in temples, as well as paintings, etc. from before the Mughal rule. When juttis were introduced by the Mughals in the 16th Century, the main centers were in Agra, Delhi, Lucknow, Gujarat, Rajasthan, and Punjab. The footwear was popular amongst the elites-- for example, nobles and kings were fond of Kafshs, Charhvans, Khurd Naus, etc. 

Another style of juttis common amongst them was Saleem Shahis, named after Prince Saleem Shah who made them popular in the early 16th Century. Saleem Shahis are known for their elegance and seem grand because of the delicate gold embroidery called Zari work. While there have been many references to fabrics with golden embroidery in Hindu epics, the term ‘zardoz’ came from the Persian word for gold wire. This suggests that the technique used on the juttis originated from Persia. Due to its grand nature, it was popular amongst royalty from the beginning. Zari work reached its peak in Delhi during the Sultanate period. The centers of zardozi changed with the Mughal capitals, but its most renowned center was Lucknow. Due to the influences from the Mughal lifestyle in India, zardozi soon spread all over the country. 

Juttis as we know them now were patronised and popularised by kings and queens who were a part of India’s richest era. The shoes originated from Rajasthan’s hub. The style at the time was more detailed and complex in terms of embellishments, textures, and design. The juttis were bedazzled with pearls and gemstones. Over time, they became popular in Punjab, where the artisans experimented with various styles and refined them to become what they are today.